Takengon was hoofdplaats of afdeeling Gajo- en Alaslanden restored 1922, at foot of mountain range open only north-west side, at Laut Tawar lake 1200+ meters above sea, 16 km long greatest width 5 km.
Description
Quite nice small place no more small pasar market street several Chinese shops bivouac pasanggrahan post office polyclinic beds ten sick scattered dwellings officials. Lake is great attraction but not only. Road along lake cut in mountain side small villages population fishes sawahs along rivers feeding Laut Tawar. At west side drains in Peusangan river. Can be rowed motorboat bestuur belongs to not unreachable enjoyments but ever accessible luxury view water surface tranquil splendour changing tints enjoy from road height surrounding or ridge nearby mountains.
Around Takengon walking even with auto trips e.g., to Pegasèn-Relop valley road accessible at least to Iē Relop KM road to Kebajakan and Sarel 6 KM. Elsewhere pads also against mountain slope one right near Takengon entirely grass covered. Walks delightful landscape varied stimulating see people labour joy field garden living water. West of place immediate surroundings stretches big blang grass plain level as would not imagine free nature. Rarely saw so excellent terrain exercise game pleasant resort human child not unsafe ravine water open wide glory played sun cooling breeze place each day feasts renewal life it is Blang Kolag. Truthfully Atjeh blessed this inland health resort and all reason accommodation increase.
Early morning all sides Gajos men women women with infant back hasty step to pasar Takengon. Clothing especially women not much kain above peculiar short Gajo jacket actually only shoulders breast covers need thin dark blanket they hold shoulders body whole pasar folk appears wrapped against cold later morning take off. Bring poor vegetables beans tobacco chicken cakes etc generally goods sit pasar while sheds rooms traders more solid wares cottons worked rags manufactures Are Menangkabauers Malay Indians selling and also make clothes. Soldiers bivouac market housekeepers choice buyers pasar.
Notable not far Takengon kampong Böbasan where kampong differs from Atjeh houses no yards but large houses reminiscent Batak kampong many families related live together small division. Gajo dwelling on stilts above ground specific arrangement described Snouck Hurgronje elsewhere. Wood bilik building materials wonder not every day Gajo kampong burns because regularly cooked kolong under house full firewood against cold daily heated Wood bilik atap all black smoked and for each family unit round hearth floor. Way inhabiting house seems not happiest part Gajo volksleven built cohabitation families same clan. When clan too large one house new beside. Whole kampong or large part sometimes one clan. Through separation emigration certain clan elsewhere kampongs arose but kept common ancestor and adat forbade thus also clan bond marriages within clan.
Chief kampong is rödjö chosen by saudörö’s; authority not unlimited. Gajo-land collection republics many respects democratic. Nevertheless Gajo’er in mountain lives more cozily than Atjeher lowland. Has tegal fields even sawahs padi planter gladly even ladang. With plowing not fuss drives horses buffaloes field loosen bit.
Gajo’er shows ease existence also other aspects. Does not do second crops padi field but horticulture brown beans tobacco vegetable potatoes. Simplicity wards worries spiritual social goes by itself good land. Livestock? Breeds not cattle but buffaloes horses exist. Land wood forest products forest hides wild hunting rhinoceros extra benefit, deer high grass tries trap. Trade spirit possesses not would not fit generosity hospitality where money matters not accurate. Forgets easily tax obligation average 3-4 gulden per year lowest f 1.20. Chiefs 8% collection wage but Gajo’er forgets chiefs even authority.
Dutch administration maintains chiefs and via patrols overdue tax collection. With military Gajo’er will not mock name Van Daalen alone makes flee. Otherwise no fear blank no disgust his Mohammedan religion free bigotry. Not enemy working land climate. 24 days heerendienst can buy off 3 gulden but usually not. Labour road not heavy own labour watercourses irrigation likes clever. Smiths rough for tools fine silver ornament. Women weave even under bystanders weave figures cloth handy nice needlework. In plaiting sitting open gallery populous house efficient babble with girls learning amidst coziness. Along one edges kampong stock padi stored bark containers pounding near house some kampongs outside stamp mill where stampers moved water wheel principle same seen Atjeh much breakage stamp mill usually exploitation head dedek thrown water unused. Houses spaces between houses teem children rarely saw much blessing conjugal together cheering etc. Houses black smoked etc. On seasonal guard of cattle on ladang: whole groups go outside mountain far blang, small dwellings goeboekjes, girls supplied pastry plaything harmonica popular possession women girls as Lampoeng.
At village Oring bride and bridegroom taking purification bath before marriage comical heads adorned high multicolor paper decorations bride literally hung silver Spanish mats tens silver arm rings rich beautiful bashful heavy apparel older women music drums percussion single gong clear sound Sun played open road wind morning tousled hair hundred children followed couple laughing cheering triangels tamboerijntjes.
Economy: enterprise Paja Toempi Veenhuizen family as described.
See Also
Account from Land en Volk van Atjeh Vroeger en Nu
Friendly village by the Laoet Tawar lake, ~1250 m elevation, on the Gajoweg ~321 km from Koeta Radja. Cool climate, ideal vacation spot but remote. Has pasar, logeries (pasanggrahans and bungalows), and the ‘Van Daalen boom’ (now gone, asphyxiated by asphalting). Has a meuseugit(where the ‘Kölee boom’ once stood).Laoet Tawar; center of Arabica coffee cultivation (Takengon-koffie). Tea and coffee estates located along the Gajo-weg.Onderafdeeling in Gajoland; Lake Laoet Tawar; centre of Arabica coffee (population and European estates), aardappelen (potato), white cabbage cultivation; pine (Pinus Merkusii) forests for resin/terpentine; horse-breeding by Gajos.Gajo lands; onderafdeeling in the afdeeling Noordkust van Atjeh. Reached by a zijweg from Bireuën with daily auto service. Site of a lake with a marine vliegtuig overzetveer (rakit) shown in the book’s photo.
Source: J. Jongejans, Land en Volk van Atjeh Vroeger en Nu (Baarn: Hollandia Drukkerij N.V., c. 1938), pp. 8, 25, 47, 71, 73, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 91, 178, 184, 187, 204, 207, 287, 290, 295, 329, 345.
Source
Atjeh als land voor handel en bedrijf, by Dr. R. Broersma, Gebrs. Cohen, Utrecht, 1925, pp. 68-82.
Land en Volk van Atjeh Vroeger en Nu, by J. Jongejans, Oud-Resident van het Gewest Atjeh en Onderhoorigheden, with a foreword by Dr. H. Colijn (Baarn: Hollandia Drukkerij N.V., c. 1938), pp. 8, 25, 47, 71, 73, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 91, 178, 184, 187, 204, 207, 287, 290, 295, 329, 345.